Jun

Ommegang Hennepin

By Andy Murphy

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“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.”
– Marcel Proust (from the Hennepin label)

Having recently discovered saisons, I’ve been looking forward to trying Ommegang’s take on the style with Hennepin.

Let’s start with the introduction to Hennepin listed on the Ommegang website:

As you pour this rich golden ale into your glass, consider your surroundings. Are you in a restaurant? Outside on the deck? Is it hot and humid? Cold and brisk? Take a drink. Feel the way Hennepin is bright and lively in your mouth with a warming mix of spicy gingersnap and citrusy hops. Refreshing. Relaxing. It’s true: no matter where you are, Hennepin is the perfect ale for all seasons.

My 12 ounce bottle poured a pale, yellow-gold and very hazy beer that filled the top of my tulip glass with white foam. Hennepin’s aroma reminded me of a witbier — citrus, wheat, spice (coriander and more), and a honey-like sweetness. There seemed to be none of the wet-leather, sweaty horse aroma I though you’d find in saisons. As I drank, hints of that wild aroma eventually emerged but it would be missed if you weren’t looking for horseblankets.

Where that brett-like earthiness did show up was in the taste, but it did so delicately, almost apologetically. Hennepin has an excellent, witbier taste — grainy wheat that’s cut through with citrus, coriander, and clove. Bitter hops accent the citrus to create a tartly-bitter aftertaste. The beer has a medium feel in the mouth, with a slightly syrupy viscocity.

This is a fantastic and deliciously refreshing beer, and I thoroughly loved it! But Hennepin proved I have much more to learn about saisons. I had expected the citrus, wheaty flavors to be accented by more brett-like yeasts and floral hops. And at 7.5% ABV, this certainly isn’t a saison that would quench your farmhands without making them sloppy — but the alcohol so completely hidden that if not for the pleasant warmth of the bitter aftertaste, you can easily forget this is a strong beer.

I want a rematch with this beer. Based on this tasting, I’d suggest that Hennepin is a better witbier than Ommegang Witte — but I’m hoping a 750 ml bottle would leave more room for the brett to mature and create a rich, saison flavor.